Anti-Aging Skincare for 50s , Mature Skin, & Menopause | Dr. Shereene Idriss

good morning little nerds get your pens and papers out get your asses out of bed it's Saturday morning you know what time it is it is Pillow Talk Derm time who the hell am I I am Dr Shireen Idris I'm a board certified Derm welcome to my channel if you've not subscribed you clearly do not know what's good for you otherwise join the party subscribe like and comment below let me know what you want to learn about next before I jump in and I'm going to jump in right now today's video is about skincare in

your 50s but do not turn off that button because this applies to you I do not care how old you are age is not a skin Ty type and you might ask yourself what the hell is she talking about that she just said this is skincare in your 50s I know what I said but age is not a skin type and it kills me when I see people basing their skincare routine on their age the first thing you need to do when you're building a skin care routine is to base it off of your problem

most people's biggest problem is hyperpigmentation discoloration of some form because we're not living in caves however for others it may be redness it may be dryness it may be fine lines it may be thinness of your skin Etc and the list goes on however there are some Universal truths in life menopause being one of them that are going to affect us all to varying degrees but within the same direction and the point of this video is to give you guys and to open your guys's eyes up to the Arsenal of products and ingredients available to

you to help yourselves throughout this time in your life because you may need a little bit more of a boost a little bit more help and a little bit more of an oomph in your skincare routine but that doesn't take away from the fact that you should Target your routine first and foremost on your biggest problem now second thing and I'm done with my TED Talk one thing that pisses me off supremely and I can get really pissed and i' I'm trying to scale back on the profanity that I use okay in terms of language

is when I am on social and I see a beautiful 50 plus year old woman talking about skincare and the first comment that I usually see is what the does this person know their face is clearly sagging and they look like I want to like bust through my screen and like you know what I mean like do that to the other person but I hold it I hold it back and I tell myself lead by example and Lead through education and not through anger and emotion but that pisses me off why first and foremost skincare

can only do so much this is a fact I am a dermatologist I am talking to you all day and every day about skincare it can truly Empower you but it can only do so much to the quality of your skin as we age we should think of our faces as couches our skin is the fabric of the couch the Skin Care can affect the fabric of the couch but our skincare is never going to fill our couches and plump them up with feathers and our skincare is never going to fix the foundation of our

couch I.E our bone structure and as we age those two very important factors factors volume fat pads and bone structure all come into play in a very real way that skincare cannot affect so when you have a 50 plus year old person talking about skincare on social media next time and you see a shitty comment let me know and let's start educating them and let's direct that person to this video that being said what happens in our 50s that is a universal truth one word menopause and with that we have a decrease in estrogen estrogen

is our thing that keeps us going that keeps us looking youthful that gives us energy because once the estrogen decreases there's really five big things that happen number one wrinkle set in because estrogen really promotes collagen Productions by stimulating our fibr blasts number two with estrogen loss we have a change and a decrease in our bone density our orbital structure becomes hollower we get more sunken in our bony structure becomes thinner our jawline becomes narrower and starts to recede and we start to look like a finger because we no longer have the structure holding the

couch with that we have saggier skin skinc care is never going to help that skin care is never going to help that but our skin begins to SAG we start to lose that elasticity and that bounce and we become overall a little bit more jowly number three with a decreasing estrogen we become more sensitive to UV rays so all the damage underneath the surface of the the skin gets activated faster as you get older I don't know if you've noticed but as you get older and you're sitting in the sun your brown spots become more

obvious much faster even if you don't have malasma but your sunspots under the surface of the skin become more prominent after a week vacation you probably look more spotted if you're using a self- Tanner and you're 50 plus that self-tanner is probably bringing out the appearance of that sun damage number four as our estrogen depletes our sensitivities go up we become more red we become more hormonal in our skin and our rosacea tends to flare up and last as our estrogen goes down we do not have the same amount of oil production our sebaceous glands

get quieter our oil production decreases and our skin becomes more dry not just dehydrated but dry because we don't have oil when we're talking about skin care right we're going to break this up into sections we're going to start first and foremost with cleansers we do not want to overetch of our skin because we do not have that oil naturally we want to be very gentle you want to look for people who are either sensitive or who are have no problems if you have no problems at all something very gentle like vanic cream is fine

as you can tell it's really shitty at taking off makeup I tried with this one when I had a full face of professional makeup done did not work so you always have to combine it unfortunately with bioderma this is the Sensi bio this is actually a really great melar water so I start with this and I wash with that do not confuse it for this guy this one sucks if you have dry skin and you're looking for something to hydrate your skin bioderma has one with a blue cap and that is their Hydra bio it

is much more hydrating for the skin otherwise this is just a fun one that I really love and I bought from France colossal OD is actually a milk makeup remover it is glycerin base it is mixed with hydrating oils and fun fact it used to be Carl leri's favorite thing this guy was so extra that apparently he would buy hundreds of these and fill a bathtub with it and just soak in it do I recommend that no I don't want you to go broke is it necessary probably not but if you want to try it

out one day P all right but keep shupette and your cat out of it and then Lan has their cream skin milk oil cleanser which has white leaf tea water to support your Skin's moisture barrier cleanse once a day keep it to the night time do not cleanse twice a day unless you want to really dry your skin out even more and inflame your barrier even more in the process number two are exfoliating acids and given the fact that we don't have enough oil we don't necessarily need a BHA like a salicylic acid we're looking

more at the AHA groups the glycolic the lactic and the mandelic acids and of that group just side note glycolic is the smallest one so it's the most powerful one mandelic is the weakest one but weak doesn't necessarily mean without Merit because if you're sensitive it's a great one but glycolic is the one that goes deepest it helps the most with collagen production lactic is the best for brightening your skin and mandelic is great for sensitive skin so with that being said I'm going to start actually with an enzymatic cleanser by Kate Somerville this one

over here the exfolia Kate because this one helps if you are somebody who feels like your skin is not only dry but dull and you're not able to really turn over your cells and you occasionally get flaky not here but like kind of all around gives you that extra buffing support that you need Plus it has lactic acid in it to help brighten your skin it also has papaya enzymes pineapple enzymes and pumpkin enzymes which are all great to help exfoliate without over drying your skin however it's not the strongest for brightening so like I

said most people's problems as they get older is discoloration and obviously Shameless plug Pillow Talk Derm that my flash mask is an exfoliating mask with 15% glycolic acid plus lactic acid and tranexamic so this guy you can leave on your face for up to 30 minutes if you're not sensitive you can leave it on overnight believe it or not and usually again if you're 50 plus and not sensitive and you leave this overnight when you wash off in the morning thank me later your skin will feel like a baby's bottom but limit it to three

times a week then we have like I said a mandelic acid and I do not have this one with me here but Sophie pavit is a dear friend and an aesthetician and she has her mandelic acid serum that you guys can try if you are sensitive looking to exfoliate your skin one once we've exfoliated you guys can help bring in the moisture in your skin with Essences and quote unquote toners I.E hydrating toners not exfoliating toners my two favorite ones are sk2 this is great at helping other products hold on to moisture because it goes

in deep and it allows to suck in those humectants holding them into your skin keeping your skin more hydrated longer I put it in a spritzer I hate their dropper hate if you can't afford it a dupe of some sort is and I hate that whole dupe culture is karx Advanced snail muin Essence you're not going to replace the sk2 but it's worth a try then we move on to serums when we're talking about serums not all serums are created equal the same way not all toners are created equal and we're going to talk about

four main categories starting with anti-aging followed by pigmentation followed by redness followed by dryness when you're going to apply the serum not just here here down to your nips because this is a cosmetic unit you need to really address it this applies to if you're 20 15 30 42 56 48 75 any age this is a cosmetic unit so starting with anti-aging what are we talking about when I'm talking about anti-aging serums I'm talking about serums with growth factors and peptides but we're going to focus first on growth factors starting with skin Medica their TNS

recovery complex TNS stands for tissue nutrients solution it is made up of human growth factors yes proteins and antioxidants but don't be freaked out because these human growth factors are actually biotechnologically produced in a lab growth factors can either be derived from plants or from humans when they are usually derived from humans they are recreated in a lab what exactly does that mean it has something called a human fiop blast media which basically cultivates human fibro blasts the cells that make collagen and then basically take that media and it has approximately 380 different types of

growth factors and cyto kindes they also have antioxidants as well as Matrix proteins to stimulate our own skin cells to make more collagen and elastin and to stay slightly firmer over time another option on the market and this is usually within the stupid medical grade skincare which means nente by the way is deage they're 8 in-1 bioserum approximately 200 bucks so they kind of are similar in price and it has age repair defensins that are peptid so if you don't want to use growth factors this is a peptide blend that really does act like growth

factors to help a cellular turnover without the growth factors most recently I came across allies of skin multi peptides and growth factor Advanced lifting serum and jadar this one it's really beautiful it is hydrating because it has phospholipids and glycolipids in it it does help improve firmness because of the copper lysinate but it has something called sh which stands for synthetic human oligopeptide 1 which is a growth factor complex that mimics epidermal growth factors in human to stimulate collagen production it's bioengineered and it is lovely she retails for a whopping 188 but I will tell

you I love it and I've also been using it on my neck which leads me to and I didn't do that one on purpose the next urine by ner which is a blend of five different peptides to create collagen this is approximately 60 bucks you can use this on your face and not just your neck I think it was marketing very smart to call it a neck serum but any of these products can be used from here to here you do not have to limit it for just one area number two in terms of serum

problems are pigmentation obviously hyper serum I know what I put into this this is the because I made it but also because I went for actives that were tried and true that were combined together at their highest levels of clinical efficacy that could be combined in one product I use four drops of this all over my face extra for under my eyes if you have a lot on your chest you can use it on your chest as well bomb.com vitamin C is an antioxidant that you do need to have in your skincare routine it's not

going to be the only one that's going to be great for pigmentation but it's one that you should definitely have when you're combining it with the hyper serum skin better science has their Alto defense serum it's the red one I have the blue one it has Tetra hexal desal ascorbate and vitamin E but it's 200 bucks I'm going to talk about the active seal in a second but my moisturizer and it's not a serum and that's why I'm not talking about it here has Tetra exal Des corate at high clinical levels and I use it

twice a day and it's also my moisturizer now if you have redness Dr jart sticka pair tiger grass Serum is great for $52 I've talked about this one quite quite often and I love it it's a very lightweight watery serum or you can use the de-puffer bip piloto Derm which is great for menopausal flushing because it also cools while you roll because of the metal roller these are before and afters from a fellow nerd love them they're unbelievable usually I wake up in the morning with red eyes I roll this around my eyes and it

deep Puffs while reducing the redness it is unbelievable again I made it unbiased but I know what I've put into it dryness you want hydrating serums cocoa kind has a great camide barrier Serum with five different camid lipids that support your Skin's natural moisture barrier and a very very powerful humectant also known as beta glucan and then last this product it's their super saturated 30% glycerin weirdest freaking texture on Earth slimy AF but you have to mix very little something that I put in my moisturizer to give my moisturizer extra o if you're looking for

eye creams eye cream with a purpose is the way to go you have a lot of redness Isen has their chaox eye cream for redness with vitamin K Kate Somerville has a very light retinol eye cream that does not irritate the eyes I like both of them they have very similar applicators they both will feel feel very nice to apply this would not be a skincare for 50s without retinols retinols are the Holy Grail you guys already know this if you don't watch my retinol video below if you're looking for somewhere to start a313 is

a French Pharmacy retinol which is relatively light but it gives instant gratification effects the next day it does itch FYI it does itch I like it for this video because it is a much thicker base and almost feels like Vaseline shaie Darden also has a retinol reform which is encapsulated re that allows to be slowly released throughout the day the only thing annoying about the shauny Darden one is we don't know the percentage of it so if you're very sensitive I would not start with that for the shebang the big one the Holy Grail you

go prescription okay TR to in alino is at 05% it's a great one moving on to moisturizers you moisturize based on your Skin's needs in the climate that you're in I cannot emphasize this enough I've did a whole video of moisturizing in summer but that video should have been called moisturizing based on your Skin's needs in the climate that you're in I love mine because it's a gel moisturizer why do I love that first of all it has vitamin C in it second of all it's a gel moisturizer so it's great for all skin types

dry or normal or oily if you're very dry however or in a very dry climate you might want to supplement this with a thick Rich basic moisturizer triple lipid by skin suitical is a nice one there are many other ones on the market but gel moisturizers can take you up or take you just you need to be without overpowering your skin and that's why I love them but the major fade active seal is great if you have discoloration as well and then we have oils this is one by aino it's their oat oil and hoba

oil hoba oil really mimics their natural seun production and like I said decreased estrogen means lack of sebum it is non- greasy it absorbs quickly and it is anti-inflammatory as well so it can help with redness this is great for all over you get a lot of big bang for your buck plus sunscreen now often times I have patients who tell me what's the point of wearing sunscreen if the damage already done I get it I get it my thing is it's never too late to start to protect yourself from further damage that can be

done but there are two sunscreens on the market that have an ingredient known as photo lias that helps to reverse the damage of your skin that's been already done by the sun it helps to reverse it these two are Isen and lights saver is Den makes this one the biggest difference with these two are the texture this is a very watery and I will show you guys texture nice it's lightweight and it disappears lights saer appears much thicker in texture and consistency and I will show you guys over here all right it is tinted he

only has one SK at the moment surprisingly though is great for people with oily skin or who live in a very humid climate because it dries matte it doesn't dry leaving a shiny film on your face and it tends to dry matte on your skin so those are the two sunscreens that I like for ages over 50 if you're looking to help reverse some of the damage that's also been done with that don't forget skincare can only go so deep cosmetic products are only going to do so much you have to fix the structure of

your couch as well as the stuffing of your couch and that takes you in to the office into my practice as a cosmetic dermatologist into a plastic surgeon's office if you're looking to go under the knife and if you have questions about that let me know below and we can save a whole other video for cosmetic treatments and what to do to help ourselves at different decades if that you guys want to do it that way although again I've had 20-year-olds who look like they're 40 and I've had 50-year-olds who look like they're 20 and

trust me I mean it when I say it you cannot generalize how somebody ages I hope you enjoyed this video if I showed you guys my desk this is what my desk looks like this is what my desk looks like like and I'm going to put you guys back on the window I really really really hope that you guys have a better understanding of how to approach your skincare routine especially now if you are in your 50s and hitting menopause have a beautiful Saturday and I will see you guys next week [Music]