Building a Brand New Toyota Engine from Scratch

hello and welcome to the car carut channel in today's video we're going to build a complete brand new Toyota long plock Toyota does not sell a long plock if you would like to buy a new engine this is how it comes piece by piece the only thing that is fully assembled is a short block for reasons Beyond me they don't do that that's just how they've always been now this engine is a 2 AR Fe 2.5 l we're going to assemble it assemble the complete long block completely toward the end of the video we'll talk

about what happened to the old one what car goes into and I hope you guys will find some educational value of how an engine is assembled piece by piece and how beautiful it looks cuz it's brand new everything from top to bottom almost let's get into it so before we get started let's kind of understand what's going on your are all these boxes every engine build starts with a block in this case we have a short block so it's fully assembled crank rods Pistons Rings everything is fully assembled from the factory so that's what we

are going to start with going to mount it our engine stand and go from there everything you see here that big box is actually a cylinder head cam cradle valve cover cams all this is a cylinder head it doesn't come assembled which is interesting this is a gasket kit front timing cover there's some water pump there there all kinds of different stuff the only part we are using reusing from the old engine and simply because it would have added almost $11,000 to this bill for parts that are just a cover or something small that we

can easily clean and be done it's going to be the upper lower oil pan and the housing for the PCV system in the back of the block that's the only thing we're reusing from the old engine and maybe if time allows at the end of the video I'll show you what happened to the old engine let's get the short block on an engine stand let's start assembling let's get the short plock [Music] so we're going to assemble our upper oil pan I know this is upside down cuz the Eng is upside down so this is

a part we reused might not look very pretty but it was a lot worse here is a before and after shot cleaned up a lot but fortunately aluminum once once it gets oxidized you can't do much about it to make it look nice but function wise there's actually nothing here it's just a very wide passages there's not even small passages so right here it's a big saving for the customer so we're not going to just just for the sake of this looking very nice doesn't affect the function of the engine the main thing here is

the function of the engine so first thing is New Balance shaft we'll talk about it let's install it just prep this and we'll install it on the Block we'll go from there let's get out our new balance shaft folks the 2 AR and and the 1 AR Fe engines they are having issues with the balance shaft and there's something different between this engine and the 2az the 2az had a serviceable balance shaft take it apart change gears you can do everything with it that you need to this engine you cannot do that and the interesting

thing is there's at least according to the to to the text that we're reading here there is a specific Teflon coating on these once that coating wears off from of course you guessed it low engine oil it will actually start making noise and the distinct noise they make is when you take off from a dead stop a little bit more aggressively you hear like like a big grind see this one doesn't have barely any noise this is just some assembly oil wipe it down just we don't want it going everywhere we haven't even started we're

already making a mess so we're going to install the balance shaft onto the upper oil pan there's two bolts that hold it correction it is three bolts that hold it to the upper oil pan or actually the more correct term is stiffening case torque for this one is 18b that is done we are ready to install this on the engine before we do we're going to flip it so we can add our sealer we're going to do our final cleaning here seal packing 103 basically called fipg or form and place casket or stet term is

Fage this is a very simple tool to operate going to open it put the nozzle and put this little roller on it so we can roll it easily I'm going to cut the tip and we'll start let's apply our sealer okay this is ready let's go clean our block we'll install it let's clean our surface here before we forget this is the easiest time to install your rear main seal that's good now let's install our stiffening case there's a specific position for this installation crank has to be keyway has to be at 90° and the

lobes of the balance shaft have to face each other to install the rest of the bolts all the 14 mm bolts are 32 the 12 mm bolt or 18 that's it this is done now we do the baffle baffle also reusing and the pickup tube pickup tube We just cleaned it there was not really debris in it and the baffle as well it's just a piece of metal that keeps oil from coming up into the crank easily when you make turns here's that baffle torque is seven here let's install a new gasket in our strainer

here that's good torque over here is seven as well now we're ready for the oil pan going to give our Pan the last cleaning then we're going to apply some sealer okay we are ready to install going to give this surface final wipe down and install all new bolts torque for this one is also seven we're going to install a new oil filter and a new oil filter cap as well this engine actually had his metal one which was an aftermarket one we are returning it to OEM which is a plastic one going to put

the gasket put some oil on it new filter and torque this to 18 I'm going to install the drain plug with a new gasket that's one way to do an oil change upside down 30 is the torque spec for this one let's flip this block now the semi major operations are done with the block we just have to put the PCV baffle over here and we are good but now there is this little plastic piece most folks will see this and I've seen technicians forget this when they do an engine all this does is it's

a baffle for coolant this is a coolant jacket right here around the cylinders all this does is keeps noise away you know gurgling sounds whatnot it keeps it away so with that here is our new hit gasket now we go assemble our cylinder head which is all new doesn't even have the tubes in it we're going to cover this engine up and go go work on our cylinder head let's get our cylinder head this is the brand new cylinder head for this engine [Applause] let's pull the cylinder head out off the box thank you what

a beautiful sight this is so here's what comes with the cylinder head you have the four spark plug tubes and you have two little rings that align your cam cradle I am not going to install these until we get all our valves in here that makes it a lot easier actually cuz then you can really access things like your valve stem seals and whatnot you can install that like last so let's do that going to put some oil at the where the seal goes this seal keeps oil from going into the combustion chamber which by

installing it you actually put a little bit of oil there which is fine it'll burn off when you start this engine put our exhaust valve stems and you just kind of clip on there on Toyota engines they intake and exhaust valve stems are different I missed these two on the way okay that's all our valve stems installed now we're going to start installing our valves let's put our cyinder head on the side let's install our valves got to put a a little bit of oil on the stem that's the intake valves now we're going to

do the exhaust that's all the valves into the cylinder head now we're going to put our valve springs in but before we do we got to install our retainers this prevents prevents the spring from damaging the aluminum just helps it stay there and before we put our Val Springs on these are the lifters we want to put them in oil so they can start bleeding on the inside then we're going to manually bleed them cuz otherwise we're going to have problems we're going to soak them in 0 w20 oil just a little cup we make

sure we don't go drinking this that would be really bad so this here here's how the lifters come intake and exhaust lifters are exactly the same part same thing with the valve springs the valves are different and then don't you love Toyota for this they give you an individual box for each little lifter such a nice box in white and a little bag so it's going to be a while see how they're bubbling that's what we want to do we want all the air to come out of them so we're going to take our little

oil milkshake here we'll leave it on the side when we get to that they'll be all bled ready to go we'll just manually bleed them make sure they're good and we're good with that before we put our valve springs put a little bit of oil underneath them then the valve springs they are all the same for this engine intake and exhaust unlike the valves now we're going to get the retainer and the two valve Keepers so this will depend how you assemble this on the tool you're using if you're using a big clamp you're just

going to put only the this guy already wants to leave you're going to only put the retainer without the keepers but the tool we are going to use this is the easiest way to do this and you'll see that tool probably do two valves and then just do some me editing magic and uh you'll see them all done so the tool I use is this is a Lal tool 36050 used it for a very long time it's actually an old version of it little worn you know seen a lot of engines this is a size

for a Toyota so this is a remover if we removing this we just put this hit it with a hammer it'll push the valve down it has a magnet on the inside it'll pull the keepers and it comes out and then this is the installer so this will keep the keepers in place when you push down as you contact the valve this will come out and the keepers will actually this will get pushed in and the keepers will sit the only thing you have to do is the valve right now with this one it actually

drops down so you got to put something underneath it to hold it up going to use a towel lift the cylinder head a little bit hopefully nothing drops and put it right underneath these two valves we're going to double check this one moves a little bit position in case this this one dropped I'll show you in case you want to see it there's the retainer valve keeper and another valve keeper that's it so now our valves are held steady let's get our tool so you want to position it on Center that's it you want to

make sure your valve keeper is flat not one of them sticking out and it's halfway engaged very dangerous if that happens immediately flip down and push it so let's do the second one this one is also good and we're going to go back and test them in a a bit but we basically now going to repeat this 14 more times so with the magic of some editing we're going to go from this to this they're all installed now we have to test them going to grab a brass drift so we were in damage of the

tips just going to what I'm doing here is I'm pushing each valve opening it so if the keeper is not sitting or it looks like it's sitting but it's not it would have popped already cuz I pushed it down so these are all good we are set here so now we're going to install our spark plug tubes we're going to get any oil here may have saved up we got to install sealer I'm going to do this one at a time these are not directional you have to put a small bead of sealer here otherwise

you'll have all kinds of problems you'll have oil on spark looks some will say it is the tube seals of the top but most of the time it is actually this one so put this block of wood going to have to measure we need to go more so the depth on it is 112 mm give or take cuz they tell you it's 111 112 mm but they don't actually tell you where to measure it from you show you a very horrible picture the idea is you don't want to go too far in where your seal

but if they're popped up a little bit more than usual we're [Applause] okay because the seal will just sit a little bit down we okay I mean there is a space between here and the top of the valve c so we're okay need to go a little bit more I like that that's good let's do the next ones so they are within half a millimeter or less give or take off each other you can never get them exactly the same CU I don't want to keep pushing on them that's how you get one two down

but the bottom line is this one is exactly as the right height these are within up to a millimeter off of this one because I don't want to keep pushing on it because these are press fit you keep pushing on them I run the risk of cracking the cylinder head so as long as we are not too low which this one is the exact height we are good now before we clean this up cuz you know when you hit it with a block of wood it comes apart and you leave some debris we're going to

install the pins that go here this is what locates [Music] your cam cradle these don't have sealer or anything they're just locating pins which are very interesting to install this height looks good to me I'm going to it's going to be very difficult to measure it because it is yeah that is see my measuring tape is in cm so 7 is what we're looking at right there there's a 7 mm so that is good let us clean our cylinder head with some compressed air I mean we're not not cleaning it from anything just any wood

chips let's get them out that is good now the million dooll question is why aren't these installed from the factory Toyota I'll tell you why because if they do they have to put a bigger box and pack it like kind of foam to hold this so these wouldn't get damaged cost them less to do this no other way around it that's just the truth here so this cylinder head is actually done and ready to go back on the engine let's do that so now we're going to install our cylinder head before we do going to

flip it and give the surface a quick wipe we're just trying to get any debris that might have got stuck here any oil cuz this is already machined and it's ready to go now on the Block for the 2 ARF Toyota wants you to put a little bit of sealer between the pleates of the not between the pleates of the head gasket but underneath it and over it this is the area of the front timing cover meets head meets block they want to really enforce it believe it or not they don't do this from the

fact Factory but in the repair manual they want you to do this so of course we're going to follow the book here just a little bit all we need this is good let's install our cylinder head that sure it's seated 100% yes it is now we do have new head bolts and new washers let me unbox these real quick we'll install them so here's what we're going to do we're going to put oil on the threads oil on the inside of the bolt head so when we stretch this bolt on this washer we wouldn't be

running it dry [Music] just going to run these bolts [Laughter] down so here's how the torque sequence is going to go or not the sequence the torque we have 27 s that just sets them and then we're going to stretch them we're going to do two sets of 90° irrelevant what the torque final torque is we're going to do 90° this stretches these bolts and everything is good once you set them we are done we're not going back to check the torque anymore cuz you stretched them already so we're going to start with our 27th

that is our first set of 27 now we're going to start stretching we're going to set our torque wrench to degrees we're going go 90° so these torque wrenches electronic ones you can use them to do degrees if you don't you're going to Mark the head of the bolt you're going to do 90° and you'll see that Mark go to 90 and then once you're done doing one sequence you're going to do it again and in case you're doing any engine work when you loosen stuff that are under heavy load like this or anything with

cams you when you loosen you start from the outside you walk your way in when you're tightening you tighten from the inside and you walk your way in outside that is always the general rule of thumb but there's always exceptions but for the most part with Toyotas at least that is the case so we're going to do our first set of 90s here so the cool thing about this torque crunch is you can actually stop halfway and Ratchet and come back and it'll still tell you cuz cuz we got to work around the [Music] tubes

so that is our first set of 90 stretch we're going to start all over again and this is when things are going to get interesting cuz the whole engine will want to twist on the stand so uh yeah let's just get this done that's it the cylinder head is fully tightened we are good all these strange noises that is just the bolt stretching so we're good let's go work on our cam cradle welcome to day two one hair cart later if few lots of events in between we're back to the engine we're going to start

assembling our valve train not the valves themselves but like the lifters and The Rocker roller rockers and whatnot so let's start getting ready for that and you remember for me it's been a few days actually it's not the consecutive day here for you it might have been a few seconds we put the lifters in a bucket of oil and I left them there intentionally let's let them soak up that's fine we got to actually bleed them before we install them so let's go do that so we're going to bleed the lifters I'm going to add

some more oil in this wider container that's good this is the special tool that bleeds this an original tool from Toyota that bleeds these lifters so I'm going to do one and then it's been soaking in oil going to leave it in here soaking in oil and then this tool is actually going to go through the nose it's going to open it up we're going to pump it to get all the air out of it just like so you see that it's pumping up you can never 100% pump it all the way but do you

see there's no more air coming out let's make sure oh we still got air coming out of it you see the air bubble here's the opening see how we're still getting air out of it uh we have to do that 16 times so it's going to be a while I'm still getting micro bubbles out of it I think this one is primed Yep this one is primed I'm going to leave it here now I'm going to do this off camera we going to bleed all of them and uh we'll install them so now we're going

to install our lifters this is something not in the book but I've always done it I always put a little bit of oil in the passage although it's going to most of it will drain down but I've always done this never had issues with lifters giving me a hard time to bleed to this so so lifters just go in there lifters should never be hard to push in should go very smoothly this one is dropping on its own that's good some of these lifters gave us a hard time to bleed that's normal they're new they

have a lot of air in them it's going to they're going to do that though we soaked them but we didn't soak the inside part you have to open the check valve to do that we going to test them make sure they're all pumped up cuz if one of them comes down we got to bleed it again it shouldn't but that's what makes all kinds of rattling noises when you start it until they fully pump up you're going to try to to avoid that solid they are all solid I like them I usually always put

some oil at the tip as well now we're going to assemble our caps these are just the Caps that protect the tip of the valve from The Rocker now we're going to put our rockers put some oil on these aren't these things beautiful we don't have to worry about the position of them because they are all new they're going to wear in together I put some o oil on the rotors so this is the valve train complete now we just have the cams left Folks by the way this is a 2 AR Fe 1 AR

is the same 2gr all 2gs are the same all your V8s the newer V8s the UR series V8s all of them have the exact same powertrain I'll tell you something about these see how this is just floating it's literally just sitting here so the cam is going what's going to put pressure on this however there's a phenomenal on with this style if you have a manual transmission off a sudden you downshift into the wrong gear and you over rev this engine this here what's going to happen one of these will fall the car will still

run but when you get to idle only one valve is opening first angel will be a little bit underpowered but you might not notice it cuz most of these are everyday cars but at idle will start misfiring only you pull the bve cover you see one of these sitting down that is a common thing now in the dynamic Force Eng they put a clamp on on the edge where it grabs it here and it doesn't fly off as easy not just sitting like that now that all this assembled we're going to assemble our cam cradle

with the new cams and then we'll come install it back here let's assemble our cam housing or Cam Tower some folks have also called it that and here it is let's talk about something with with Cam housings cuz I I've seen this before and this question have come up any person that works on cars should know this but you can't replace individual caps folks I see this question come up all the time these when they were made they were installed here rough and then they were machined together so you can't take this cap out of

this engine and go put it in another one that's not how this works you can't actually do that that is not possible so these caps will always come with the engine so let me take these caps off so we start assembling our cams we'll go from there so let's pull our caps off so you notice something difference between these two you notice this one has an oil passage in it this one does not this is where the bbti gears will feed so this is actually where your oil control valve will control these this is where

the valve cover is going to sit so there's two these two gaskets and there's actually one more this is for your vvti control this is where the it's going to send oil one way or another way and then return so it can control the bbti timing and then here on this cap you have this which actually feeds oil to the valve cover for the spray that's going to spray the the cams on the far side so there are a few additional things that we have to do so the 2 AR Fe for reasons beyond my

understanding only has a cam bearing on the exhaust side only in the front not here not anywhere else that's just how they deemed it here's a cam shaft which if I find my pocket screwdriver we can open it I just wanted you guys to see how this comes in the Box it comes wrapped in a very strange way takes a little bit of an effort to uh oh this one didn't of course I've done so many cams and they are always come wrapped in a very strange way with very distinct yellow tape this one didn't

so there is [Applause] that there's your brand new exhaust cam come with the pin yes it does these are the things we want to make sure that they come with let's install our exhaust cam first so these bearings are actually different part number which is interesting this is I marked them from the part number this is a lower bearing the interesting thing about this bearing is it does not have a holder so you have to make sure that it goes perfectly centered did I get it from the first shot yes I did I'm even proud

of myself this never happens yeah that is good now just so we wouldn't forget we're going to install the other half on the other side which is this one so we're going to install this last bearing here let's try to get it perfectly centered cuz it does not have a guide okay that is good now there is one more thing did you know that these engines actually had a tiny little filter it goes right there so this is ready to go now let's install our exhaust cam going to put oil here here's our cam beautiful

going get my intake cam ready as well install that one [Applause] there it is that was scary handling a cam you drop it we have major major problems of course there it is beautiful I like that folks this looks very beautiful let's put some more oil can never have more oil when you're assembling an engine sure our filter doesn't fall did not that is by the way the filter for the vbt just run them [Music] down torque them to [Music] 12 now that we got him torque down make sure our cams turn yes they do

very beautifully well this cam cradle now is ready to go on the car actually going to flip it not on the car on the engine I'm getting all excited already going to give it a wipe down from oil old debris did use oil to assemble them some of I've got here the surface going to do the same thing on the cylinder head so let's apply apply our sealer here before we install it there's many schools of thought do you apply this sealer on the cam Tower or on the cylinder head the manual in this particular

case says to apply it here we will but I've seen two AR parts of the manual will tell you apply it on the cylinder head so does the answer for that is it doesn't really matter as long as you get it on the correct spots you shouldn't have issues okay I like that let's install it there we go just going to set our cams in the right position right there there it is all right let's do this these are the same old bolts these are not stretch bolts or anything we just clean them up they're

going back so so I'm going to use this just to run them down then we'll torque them torque spec for this one is 20 footb [Music] so now that we got the cams in there's one thing very important that we make sure we make sure that our rockers didn't fall off or move out of position so let's take a look at them let's take a look at these These are seated properly so are these These are also good we're good here and how about these over here these are all good I like them they're all

sitting properly none of them jumped out so I think we are good so now that we did all that I think it is time for us to move to the front let's do our chain time the engine and everything then we'll wrap it up let's start with our cam gears put some oil here pin as well now we got to be careful with our intake cuz it is currently unlocked we will keep it unlocked until we install it and then we will lock it I'll show you how that process goes do you see these two

marks right here they are not lined up with each other you never install a gear that this that is the Locking type like this one with these marks together that means it's locked you'll destroy it right away so we're going to install it with it unlocked once we tighten it torque it down we lock it because if you forget to lock it he'll also destroy it so with that no pressure at all there it is going to turque it down to spec let's install our second gear and we will torque them both together second gear

now the exhaust one does not have the lock it is self loocking and I'll show you why cuz this guy has this Big Spring that locks it so it's always locked doesn't have a lock pin so let's install this one there it is it's good it's all the way we're going to make sure yes we are now the torque spec for this one is 63 we're going to have to hold the cam this particular cam is a 24 most Toyota cams are 24s some of them are 27 hold it this is tor try this one

that's it so they good to go now the intake one let me get you a close-up so you can see it so you see how our marks are not lined up I'm going to lock it now that we Tor it the spec see how that locked that is locked it's not going anywhere if you torque it like that there's a little pin that do damage and then this gear is basically it's going to Rattle continuously and if you don't lock it when you start this engine the first time it's going to hit that lock so

hard it might break it so that's the correct procedure for this now that we got this let's proceed to our chain so to start our chain we're going to install our first guide only thing we're reusing again for this guide is the bolt it's just the bolt the guide itself is new the torque for this one is 15 going to install our gear now that we got the guide on let's turn our crank so I don't have the spark plug so this shouldn't be very difficult to turn there we go that is top dead center

should be very close to I mean of course we're going to use the marks on the Chain so even if we need to move it a little bit that's not a problem tur chains are very simple and they don't have any special 17 million special tools don't stall them or none of that nothing they are literally the simplest chains even in their most complicated engine just keep it simple so I'm going to turn this cam make sure it stays in time okay there it is our way on time and no we are not so this

is the part that is fun about this this is where I'll ask Jose to help so hold this cam going this way just don't put pressure on it just hold it I'm going to get the chain off move my crank we go that's enough went too far now you just have to skip it tooth by tooth till it gets to the exact time there we go now I'm going to take the slack from this side so I basically got my chain in time at the bottom I'm going to hold this it's already on time at

the top I'm going to install my big guide here that will hold everything together going to torque this guy to 15 then we're going to install the tensioner just going to sit right there take care of our that this tensioner does have a gasket on the 2 AR some reason some engines do some engines don't some of one tensioner does one tensioner doesn't just like the 3ur and the ironically on the 3ur the tensioner that does have a gasket is the one that usually fails causes a clattering when they're cold this one is going to

be 7 ft-lb that's it you can let it go Jose now we got one more tensioner and before we do going I put a little bit of oil here should run behind the chain I'll let it run we have one more guide I'm sorry not tensioner put a little bit of oil on this guide you don't need you don't need a lot of oil on these guides since you start the engine like prime it you're going to run a whole bunch of oil here this is the guide that is common to break when this engine

has a bad wbti gear which is something that is common with this engine in its early years even if it's somewhat later years but this is basically what you're replacing T this one we are good so I want to make sure we don't have the chain is sitting right in the guide we don't have any slack on this side we have we don't have a lot of slack on this side this is a pretty tight chain we do have a little bit here so we're going to make sure that we leave all our slack where

the tensioner is so right now we have a little bit of slack here nothing here nothing here nothing here nothing here so here's how we're going to do this going to pull the tensioner we're going to move our slack from here to here that means I got to turn the engine this way just the cam not the engine so I'm going to move it listen to the tensioner so this is very little slack so I'm going to give it a little bit of help I don't think we are so close to it knowing these engines

I'm going to want to tighten the tensioner cuz over time it's not going to have the enough Force to overcome that and click into the next stop so I don't think I will be able to do that it's it's extremely tight I'm going to give it a shot if it doesn't go then it doesn't go we just actually already took the tension out of this so as soon as this tension pumps up it's going to take this slack off Jose would you mind holding this I'm going to give it one last shot to click it

one more time you don't have to put a lot of pressure very little pressure that's all we're doing there you go did you hear that this helps us that's it that one click of the tensioner is going to help us on a very quiet start now this is solid there's there's still very little play here that is normal folks but it was a little bit much they don't tell you any of this stuff in the manual but from experience if you run this tensioner the way it was it will rattle so much until it quiets

down and I worry that that rattling is actually weakening this guide so we've always done it this way now that we've got everything we're going to I'm going to double check my timing marks so why don't you guys join me in checking these timing marks so you guys can see them so here is our first timing mark hope you can see it there it is see how the line lines up with the paint Mark here's the other one also the line lines up with a paint mark this one try to get you the best shot

possible do you see how there's a line here it's going to look like it's off depending on the angle so this Dot and the paint Mark when you look at it straight they're lined up now if you go at it from the top see how it shows at the bottom but you can't keep be half a tooth off and if you look at it from the bottom like that it also can't be half a tooth off but you have to look at it straight that looks exactly in time and we are set so now that

everything is done here we got to install a few studs one of them sits here and the other one sits here these sorry it sits here actually these just help us line up the front cover before we actually get the front cover going we got to clean some of that sealer that we kind of excess sealer from when we put the cam Tower the head gasket see that theater is already drying it's always easier to clean Cedar when it's dry than when it's wet it's going to make a mess see because we did these the

other day for you guys it was the same video but for us was another day look how easy it is that's it going to cut it same thing here this is the most important area that is 100% clean going to make sure we spend our time this is where front covers love to leak that is good we're going to give an initial wipe do another one right before we install our timing cover spots few couple spots right here okay we have a few gaskets that are going to go I think I'm going to install them

now there's one two three so let's install those let's put our three gaskets here there's one reason there are these gaskets because your oil pumps actually in the front timing cover speaking of the front timing cover here it is beautiful front timing cover I am I am very impressed by Toyota right now I'll tell you why they put a uh block off plate this is actually the access for the timing chain tensioner and this I was actually ready to go swap them out the old one they put them here very proud of you Toyota for

uh making a very expensive part and then putting everything you need with it that's very nice well we don't need to do much here and the reason we are replacing the front cover is because of the oil pump you can't get this oil pump separate from the timing cover so you have to get the whole timing cover very clean very nice going to put some cedar going to install it on the engine so let me give this a quick wipe give the engine one last clean and then we're going to install it let's apply the

seedar on it and to put extra where the head gasket meets oh we have a piece of debris here there we go nope still have a piece of debris got to clean it there it is that's a clump of Cedar that's clogging it going apply this area we go so the certain areas where two components meet you always want to put a little bit more like here this is where the lower oil pen meets or stiffening case meets the block this area right here is where the cylinder head meets the block meets the front cover

here is the cam cradle got a couple spots here as well seal the bolt okay let's go do our final cleaning on the Block and ready to roll let's give it a final clean it's already clean but just in case prep is everything so this is going to be the interesting part I have a tool that aligns our oil pump but that tool decided to break and it's going to be a little tricky to get it on see it doesn't want to go on going to go without the tool I'll hope for the best I'll

just manually do it before this tool existed it's of course not an official tool it's actually a tool made by a technician before this tool we just used to line them up manually just like this there it is there it is front covers on let's get our bolts [Applause] we're going to run our bolts down the gun and torque [Applause] them 14 mm bolts are 41 foot-pound the rest of them are 16 and part of the procedure we must install this bracket it's a little rusty but it's is just a slab of cast iron and

this is external so we are not worried about contamination [Applause] let's do the 16s first all right well that front cover is on only thing we're missing is let's install this front crank seal and we'll move on to the last couple things going to put a little bit of oil on the lip here install our seal this is a new part and almost installed the seal by hand we're going to give it a little bit of [Applause] help I like that that is done let's do the valve cover and here's the valve cover believe it

or not this is how the valve cover comes the 2 AR from Toyota it's kind of strange this comes bubble wrapped very delicate part folks will think valve cover is just a valve cover it's actually not the case cuz it has all this baffling and it has these sprayers for the cams which are actually plastic that's uh there is one thing we have to do with this valve cover before we install it which is going to be the the spark plug tube seals and also the oil fill cap seal here's a got an extra gasket

here's a fun fact about this 2 AR all almost all Toyota engines tube seals go from the bottom this one they go from the top very very cool thing that they did here CU you can actually replace them without pulling the valve cover and I just put a little bit of oil to help the seal seat and most of the time especially with a new valve cover I'm hoping we can push them in by hand cuz they're not really high high tension it's like that that's it all you got to do is just push pull

them out now if you drop some debris inside if you're changing them DIY that's a problem you got to pull the valve cover and pull that to routs but as simple as that now last but not least let me go get the oil cap we'll install it install this on the car here is that let's get the gasket out of it which if the gasket is old not always the easiest proposition in the planet no I got it now I have reason to suspect this cap may not be original I don't understand why but it

seems to be decent quality there's the if the gasket sits then it is a decent quality yes it does look at that actually a very important maintenance item that you do cuz this will make a a giant mess if you don't replace it then we're going put the cap let's install the valve cover but before we celebrate and get all excited let's put the gasket on all right let's install it going to remove this excess sealer here when we did the F the timing cover going to give the rest of the surface quick wipe down

we have these three gaskets that we talked about for the bbti very important that you replace these and this one every time now put a little bit of sealer here a little bit of sealer here [Applause] and the valve cover goes [Music] [Applause] on these two bolts in the middle and we have this little gasket our seal popped this is how easy these seals are to pop folks torque spec for this is [Music] nine whenever you do a valve cover gasket always double torque because they will change see this one turns a little bit just

double check them it wouldn't hurt so I'm going to go around it that's it and I just noticed one of our seals popped up again just make sure these are seated final that's it we got one last thing to do and this motor is done so we're going to install our PCV baffle here these two studs one thing I will tell you do not install these studs in the wrong position because the intake manifold sits here if you put them it'll actually crack it I think one of my first two AR engines I've done I

made that mistake one mistake is one too many so going to give this final wipe now this does have sealer I did apply it off camera we're actually ready to go for it this is the part we're also reusing out of the old engine because it is just a piece of metal torque spec for this is 15 then we're going to install the PCV valve is now very easy to do when it's out of the car to exp for PCB valve is 20 put the spark plugs it's done so expect for these is 18 that's

it it's done and this long block is completely assembled now of course we're not done with this you still have all the stuff that goes around it and putting it back in the car starting it's still a long process to go for us here but as far as a long block this is a complete long block now some some long blocks will come without a valve cover without oil pan that's just depending on the manufacturer some manufacturer will s you an entire engine with manifolds with everything just ready to bolt on and start but if

Toyota would start offering long blocks like this this would be very nice because then we don't have to spend the labor time which is costly to assemble this this would be already assembled ready to go Unfortunately they don't and that's okay now let's talk about a few things before we wrap up this video the first thing is what happened to this car why are we putting an entire long block this car ran low in oil I mean for an extended period of time here's a small shot of the cylinder walls I mean there's absolutely no

cros heads there was metal debris in this Engine things I mean it sounded horrendous let's put it this way I wish we would have got a shot of it running because it just sounded like it was done and when you have metal debris in an engine there is no way around it everything that oil touches should be replaced except parts that you are 110% sure you can clean like the oil pan like the upper oil pen or the crankshaft stiffing case or this little container here that's all there just a container and the bolts obviously

bolts you can clean them that's not a big issue but everything else has to be replaced and this is what we're doing here now the cost for this including everything from pulling the engine out of the original car getting all these parts some of these parts are in back orders so took a very long time this car has been in our shop for a very long time as we go back and forth deciding what's the best course of action this entire job cost over $116,000 now you can go and buy a very low mile beautiful

example of a 2000 10 camera here for that amount but the owner of this car has sentimental value to the car the car matters a lot to them and honestly other than this the car is in decent shape does have miles have a little bit of rust it's a New York car but it's sentimental value when sentimental value gets in a car there is no right amount or wrong amount to spend into it and in the end after having a talk with the customer this is what they want to do this is what they're willing

to spend we are a shop open for business we repair cars we're going to advise you but if you don't go with our advice because you have ulterior motives like sentimental value we are open to do business and repair cars this engine is complete it it is it took a lot it took 2 days of full assembly on this but we got everything going there's still a long way to go probably at least two or three more days of full work on the car from beginning to end of of the shop time we still got

to assemble all the accessories we still got to install it in the car we still got to make sure it's good we're actually servicing the transmission as well pull on the pan and whatnot but this is a long block it doesn't exist from Toyota but now you see what it takes to actually build a long block from Toyota brand new except a few parts are we're not going to just rack up the build just to make it look shiny in the end we want this engine to run for a long time not just look pretty

folks I hope this video is helpful informative I hope you learn something new if you like it consider giving it a thumbs up if you're not a subscriber consider subscribing to the channel check out some other videos until the next video folks may the Lord bless you and keep you and you have yourself a wonderful day