The ULTIMATE GUIDE to Hyperadobe Earthbags: Pros, Cons, & Cost Savings

hi I'm Jonathan I'm Ashley and we are tiny shiny home our family is building an offgrid desert Homestead and we're using local soil to fill bags to create our own unique natural building today we're going to share everything we know about hyper Adobe Earth bag building these UV treated rational mesh tubes are presenting exciting New Opportunities safer build sites and huge cost savings for those of us who are building with soil since hyper Adobe is so new there's not a lot of information out there we've been furiously experim ing the last four years with it building a solar shed office a large outdoor chicken Garden a small compost and toilet out house and have taken everything we've learned from those projects to design a huge 2500t roundhouse for our family all while documenting every step of it on our YouTube channel So today we're going to do our best to condense all of that knowledge the pros and the cons the tips and the tricks the wins and the losses everything that we've learned along the way into a single video so that we can Empower you to go build your own hyper Adobe dream Plus at the end of this video we'll share a few ways that we could possibly help you with your specific project now let's get [Music] started now we're not going to get too deep here but it is important to know when where how and why these building techniques came to be stacking bags of dirt into buildings has been around for over 100 years the military used them for flood control and bunkers because they were cheap built quickly on site and could even stop a bullet we'll fast forward to the 1980s where nadir KH popularized a more permanent earthbag building at the Cal Earth Institute he combined ancient Dome and arch construction methods with sandbags and strands of barb wire to create a monolithic structure resistant to Fire and earthquakes he further improved it by implementing super Adobe or long tubes of enclosed polypropylene bag material that would be filled with Earth moistened and then tamped into a formed adobe brick this would allow anyone in the world to create an earth bag structure with just manual labor and minimal tools nearly 30 years later Fernando Pacho developed the hyper Adobe earthbag method now this focused on building vertical walls with a rashal knitted fabric kind of like the material you would see fruit packaged in at the grocery store not only did this mean that you used a fraction of the plastic material around the dirt but it cost about half as much as super Adobe and it didn't need barb wire because the open netting would allow the material from the lower leg layer to lock into the new layer above having spent so much time building this way ourselves we think that this is the future of natural building but that is a big plan let's look at why you might want to build with Earth bags in the first [Music] place in our recent video about why natural building is so important we t talked about how creating structures used to mean you would use the materials around you then the Industrial Revolution happened and 2x4s started getting grown halfway across the world Mill thousands of miles away and then transported even further building with local materials like soil drastically reduces energy usage pollution and waste traditional construction is also full of all kinds of chemicals that can cause cancer and tumors thyroid issues and respiratory problems so by building with natural materials we're creating a safer clean environment that we live in day in and day out thick dirt walls don't necessarily have a high insulative r value but they do have thermal efficiency and a thermal Mass transfer for example our solar shed office uses 16-in hyper Adobe Earth bags it has a traditional insulated roof to catch rain water and an earth and floor we also have a mini split AC and heat pump with all these things combin the mini split is incredibly efficient because once it brings that building to temperature the ther efficiency holds the temperature for long periods of time thermom Mass transfer is the most interesting thing about Earth bag walls when the sun warms the wall it gets absorbed and slowly passes through to the inside for our 16-in walls we found this takes about 12 hours in our climate we found the best way to use thermal Mass transfer to our advantage is to build our longest wall facing south so that in the winter when the sun is low it will hit that wall all day and release that warmth into the building overnight this allows us to kick our covers off about 2 a. m. every night in the summer a traditional roof provides shade over as much of the walls as possible to help keep it cool until the very end of the day when the sun is low and Blasting that Western Wall all that to say with proper insulation in your floor and your ceiling Earth bag walls can be very thermally efficient just using native soil Earth backed buildings especially the domes with barbed wire are resistant to earthquakes and with the Earth and plasters on the outside they're also inherently fire resistant and probably the biggest reason to consider earthbag building is just that anybody can do it our whole family pitches in every time we don't need any fancy expensive tools and the cost of materials to build a wall are insanely low we get to spend time together building things outside with our own hands this is a very therapeutic way of building it is however a ton of work so much work it is not for the faint of heart or the weak of body but we have witnessed people of all ages rolling up their sleeves getting their hands dirty and finding whatever job they could do to pitch in earthbag building is truly affordable and accessible by nearly everyone so for those of you who are like all right I'm in what do I got to do how does this work we're going to get into it before we learn how to build with Earth bags let's let's look at a few Core Concepts think of the process like a huge 3D printer and you're the printer laying each course and building the walls layer by layer digging a trench where your walls go is an important First Step not only will it allow you to create options for drainage water and rodent barriers but it creates a toll hold for your walls to lock into the Earth and stabilize we'll take you through the full Foundation setup here in just a few minutes but first let's talk about shapes buttressing and interlocking the first thing to keep in mind is that circular walls are inherently stronger than straight walls you can create large diameter vertical walls without any additional support because gravity will pull the wall in but it's stabilized against itself because of the shape straight walls are definitely doable but this means you need to butress every 10 to 12 ft a buttress is a small perpendicular wall at least 3 to 4 ft that locks into the foundation and interlocks all the way up with your vertical wall buttresses should also be around door openings whenever possible to help support that large hole and if you're smart about your design a buttress doesn't always have to go to the outside it could be an interior wall wherever you have a buttress or even just a wall that intersects with another wall you need to do interlocking layers think of it kind of like Lincoln Logs one wall layer will go over the join point and the next layer will sit flush up against it this helps create an incredibly strong and locked in structure that prevents against leaning sagging or blowouts we get asked often why we can't can't build the inner section of our house first then the next Circle and then the next Circle so each area is easier to access because of interlocking all the layers have to go up at the same time so they can overlap with each other just a little side note here one thing that super Adobe bags and barbed wire do very well are domes not only are they circular but they also get smaller towards the top creating a very strong unified structure that doesn't require a separate roof they are however much more complicated to build as you need multiple compasses and points of reference to make sure that the arch is mathematically correct and it doesn't collapse we love super doobe domes and we think they're beautiful but out here in our climate we need to shade our buildings and collect rain water so that is why we're focusing on hyper Adobe hyper adob Earth bags are perfect for building Plum vertical walls without barbed wire so you can put whatever kind of roof on them that you want when you're building vertical walls you do have to make sure they are Plum if they start leaning too much as you get up higher you're creating a dangerous situ situation so use your Tamp a big level or plumb bob and keep things in line we do need to pause here and absolutely make it clear that we do not recommend building domes with Hyper Adobe bags yeah the material is just different the barb wire wouldn't hold in it and honestly there's just not enough research or tests or examples to know that it would be safe so we just can't recommend it also just jumping in here to mention that you can totally do vertical walls with super Adobe bags too it's just more expensive and a requires barb wire if you're building in an earthquake heavy area then the tinel strength provided by that barred wire is really important so super W might make more sense for you in that scenario now that we've covered the basics let's gather the tools that we'll need to build [Music] with to build an earthbag building you're going to need a few things the first is soil pretty obvious right but the type of soil you have does matter you can do a simple jar test or send a sample off for real scientific testing but in general for wall fill material you're looking for at least 30% clay any less than that and you may have trouble binding things together when you add the water in Tamp the best mix that we've found is something similar to Road Bas or AB mix it's 1/3 sand 1/3 clay and 1/3 rock or aggregate adding just a bit of water and tamping this into place creates a very hardened brick many also recommend adding 10% Portland cement in into the mix especially on your foundation layers headers and bom beams or up against any forms that you might be pulling out later using the soil from your own property is the ideal situation however if you have too much sand or clay or rocks it won't be as safe or effective so you might need to supplement from a local gravel yard be especially careful of too much clay not only is it going to make your mix gooey and sticky and hard to even put into the bags but a big rain event can really make a wall unstable that has too much clay in in it try to keep your clay in the 25 to 45% ratio we always recommend making a few test bags just to make sure that your mix is right number two you need a cement mixer the key to having a properly filled hyper bag is all about consistency a cheap cement mixer we use the ones from Harbor Freight are perfect for letting you add exact amounts of clay rock or sand and then water until it's ready they can be run off of a small solar system or generator so you can use them anywhere while it is possible to mix by hand a mixer will save you a ton of time and energy which trust us you're going to need to transport fill and Tamp the bags later number three shovels good quality shovels are always going to help move the dirt around faster we use them mainly to take the dirt from our material pile and put it into the cement mixer number four water you will need water to get the mix in the bags right unless it Like Rain the night before you can just put dry material in a bag and smash it and hope that it's going to lock into place espe especially as you get up higher and you have all that weight and it's just it's not safe you have to add the right amount of water and get it tamped into an adobe brick we use a solar powered pressurized pump setup with a rainwater catchment tank but really any way you can get water and put it into the cement mixer will work number five wheelbarrows once the material is mixed you need to get it on site to your wall since this will be a constant moving Target a whe bear is highly recommended so you take a full batch at a time number six Scoops in order order to move that material from the wheelbarrow into your bag you will need a handheld transfer method now our friend Hayden recommends tomato cans however we really like these feed Scoops from Tractor Supply number seven hyper Adobe Earth bags of course you'll need the actual bags to fill and to build your wall with these come in Long rolls that can be cut to size based on the length of the wall that you're laying we'll tell you where to get them and how to prep and fill these bags in just a few minutes number eight you're going to need a Tamp once the bags are filled and tied off you're going to need to Tamp these bags into an adobe brick tamps are pretty easy to find at the hardware store and we have a few different weights and sizes for different applications a 20 lb Tamp is a great weight to get those bags compressed quickly however it can be a little bit heavy for some people true you can still use a 10 pounder you're just going to have to work a little bit harder and you can even weld up your own custom Tamp to be as wide as the bag for the sides of the walls we recommend just grabbing a 2x4 about 18 in and using that to compress the edges number nine the dolly bucket system now while it is possible to just hold the bag fill these things by hand you're going to save yourself a ton of time and physical labor if you use something like the dolly bucket system we have several videos of us building this dolly bucket system that we're going to link up into the description but the basic idea is to take two five gallon buckets cut the ends off tape them together and build a funnel that allows you to expand the bags keep the wall straighter and more evenly filled an elastic band around around the end lets the bag slowly release as it gets filled you can also add a bracket and modified dolly or hand cart that the bucket can hook to for very long runs when you don't have as many hands available the beauty of this dolly bucket system is it uses really cheap materials that you can find at any hardware store and it will save you a ton of time on your build while we love hyperd bags it is important to know the difference between super Adobe and Hyper Adobe so we're going to look at the pros and cons of each super Adobe is made out of polypropylene and it comes in rolls of various lengths and widths it degrades quickly in the sunlight and cost about 46 cents per linear foot it requires barb wire between the layers the bags are very slippery it is great for domes and monolithic structures but these do require a lot of planning math and calculations to keep safe you can use a bucket but you still have to hold it while you do it vortexing as you go they are stiffer and harder to scrunch up for unbroken runs and the smooth surface makes it more difficult to apply plaster to hyper Adobe bags are polyethylene rashal knit and they come in rolls with various lengths and widths they are UV coated and last for years in the Sun and are about 27 cents per linear foot no barbed wire is required between the layers they are grippy and great for vertical walls with attached roofs the process is simple and safe for the whole family just build the wall straight up you can use the dolly bucket system to lay the bags faster they're flexible and easy to scrunch up to do long unbroken runs and the knitted mesh surface creates a laugh to apply plaster directly to one quick note we haven't mentioned a third type of Earth bag building single bag this uses sacks that are stacked into to in but in general we feel like the long two method is superior we didn't want to over complicate the comparisons in this video but just know that it's out there if you want to investigate size does matter the bigger or taller structure the wider your bag should be to support it in super Adobe domes the wall width should not fall below 10% of your internal diameter so our 9t super Adobe Dome needed 12 to 14in bags to be stable in hyper Adobe it's not as critical since you're building walls straight up however the taller you go The Wider your bag does need to be for reference we built up to 12 ft with 16-in bags and I don't think we'd go any higher I think we'd move to an 18-in bag if we wanted to go any taller than that you're also going to need to learn how to calculate how much bag you need to build your building our friend Hayden at curvet texture has a nice calculator for domes that lets you punch in the diameter size and tells you how tall it should go and how many feet of bag to use calculating hyperd bags for project is simple too since you're building vertical walls just take the combined length of each wall to know the linear footage for each layer then decide how many layers you'll need for reference a 16-in hyper Adobe bag when filled and tamped properly should be about 4 and 1/2 to 5 in so a 10ft wall would require 24 individual layers multiply the length of one layer by how many layers you need then divide by the length the roll comes in to know how many rolls to buy for reference our 200t solar shed used two rolls our 70t composting toilet ouse used less than one roll our open air, 1400t chicken Garden used four rolls and we expect our 2500t roundhouse to use about 10 rolls all right friends let's show you you had to build with Hyper Adobe step by [Music] [Applause] [Music] step the basics of laying a course or a section of hyper bag look like this first you want to measure how much bag you need for the section that you're laying the simplest way to do this without any additional tools is just to walk it off with one foot right in front of the other for circular walls be sure to walk along the outer edge or else your length is going to be too short don't forget to add at least 3 to 5 ft to the total because you have to tie off each end of the bag head over to your roll you should have it on some kind of spinning stand grab the edge and walk out the same number of feet plus the extra for the ends cut the bag make a knot and turn it inside out this is important so that the knot stays inside the bag and you have a nice clean Edge if laying the bag by hand roll the edges down as far as you can so you have something to hold on to if you're using the bucket system you'll want to scrunch the bag onto the bucket as far as you can we can typically fit about 70 ft with our two 5 gallon buckets in to end but make sure you stop a bit before you get to the end of your bag pull it through the bucket and tie the knot on the inside then finish sliding the bag until it's tight with the bucket you'll also need an elastic band to go around the end so that the bag doesn't slip off too quickly when filling over at your cement mixer add the ratio of materials some water and start mixing remember we said we found that 1/3 clay 1/3 Rock and 1/3 sand is a great mix but you can always stabilize with Portland cement the amount of water you're going to add to this mix is super important too dry and nothing will stick or t together if it's too wet it will not fit into the bag properly or hold its shape when tamped as always make sure you do a lot of experiments before you build your structure once you get the mix right it's time to start filling the bag first make sure to wet down the previous layer so that the material from that bag will lock into the material from the new bag if filling by hand set the bag vertically a few inches from the end of the wall and add material until it's about a foot tall pick the whole thing up and let it fall on the ground a few times to flatten and Tamp the end then pick it up and lay it on its side to get started note dirt gets heavy really fast in these kind of quantities I like to have a good amount to pick up and drop so you really Tamp the end well but you have to be careful you don't want to hurt yourself so find the weight and the amount of dirt that works for you also if you Tamp that end too much it makes it too big and then it's hard to get it level with the rest of your bag so it's going to take a few times times but you'll get the hang of it as you fill the bag by hand you're going to want to roll that top as tight as you can to keep tension on it and with each scoop use your other hand to smash the dirt in and fill the empty space now if you're using the bucket to fill there's two ways to do it you can either hold the bucket by hand yourself or you can hook it to that Dolly each process is a little bit different if holding the bucket by hand set it vertically a few inches from the end of the wall and start filling once you get the bucket halfway full you want to lift up and let the bag extend at least 6 in in then keep filling a few inches from the top of the bucket now this is one of the more complicated moves you'll want to grab the tamped end of the bag with one hand put your whole arm around the bucket with the other lean it at about a 45° angle and pull the bag out flat so that it's about 1 to 2 in from the end of your wall keep the angle on the bucket and keep filling slowly shaking and moving the material down and filling the cavity left in the bucket the key to a perfectly expanded and evenly filled hyper Adobe bag is gravity so before you pull that bucket up any you want to fill it up again as much as possible shaking the material so it fills the space and getting the bucket high enough so that it sits above the top of the bag otherwise every time you make that move you're going to put a big cavity in the bag and you're going to have a bunch of dents and it's no good you don't want that once you get in the groove and people are bringing you dirt you'll really start to find that rhythm of filling stepping back and filling again now when you put the bucket on the dolly you're going to have to start it further back about two full steps back from the end of your wall start filling and you'll watch the bag bag fall naturally as it gets heavier once there's 5 to 6 in of material in it grab the bag and lift it and drop it a few times to get that flat end and keep filling until you get near the top of the bucket brace the wheels or have someone hold the dolly while you grab the whole bag and in one fluid motion flip the end out and pull it to within 1 to 2 in of the end of the wall if you've done this right you should have had enough material to to pull it all the way out not have any cavities in the back now you can just let the dolly sit there waiting for material while you roll it back slightly each time gets full you'll have to keep a closer eye on the bags as you fill and pull as the dolly has a tendency to wander and remember you want hyper Adobe bags to be perfectly Plum and vertical with the layer below it it's much easier to make adjustments before tamping so just roll or shape the bag as needed ending your bag is also an important step if laying by hand you'll want to get it as close to the end as you can smash it flat with your hand then lift up and have a friend grab the excess bag pull the pinch Point down to the bottom twist at least five times and then push under under the bag while you roll it back down over top with the bucket by hand you'll have to slide the bucket off near the end fill the last bit by hand and then follow the same procedure and with the dolly you'll have to do this complicated Dolly dance to get it out of the way at least 3 to 5 ft before the end of the wall then fill the bucket while holding by hand then remove the bucket fill the rest holding the bag and then tie it off now you may see us laying a lot of bag without the dolly and the dolly may seem like it's more efficient but you may be starting to see why it's not not unless you have really long walls it just kind of gets in the way it adds extra steps and especially as you start adding doors and windows to your walls then you're doing short sections all the time um so it's really good for long unbroken runs but it can kind of get in the way for shorter walls congratulations you now have part of a wall laid good job step back and give everything a good look bulges curves or uneven sections will stick out take a minute to massage the bag back into place before you start tamping once the wall looks right grab your Tamp and start working on the top don't Tamp too much remember once it's been compressed you can't uncompress it and make it taller again so start slow do a light pass to get some of the poof out then a secondary pass to get it even and then a final hard pass to get it really locked in use a long 2x4 to smack the sides and compress those walls as well not only does this mean you'll have less to plaster later but the sides of the bags are where you'll see the most breakage of material locking in the sides is important for the structural Integrity of the [Music] wall the basics of laying hyper Adobe Earth bags is simple but of course there's additional tips tricks and considerations so the first is how to protect your foundation layers right we mentioned earlier that we think you should create a toe hold for those lower bags so that they lock into the Earth but as we have experimented more we've talked to a bunch of people who have run into different issues we're recommending a few additional steps if you're building like a primary building on your property like your house for large buildings consider protecting them from flooding by bringing in material raising up and leveling and compacting the foundation to start the amount you need to raise it depends on your annual rainfall and flooding potential dig your trenches at least 18 in down consider the frost line in your area too if your land has a slope that 18 in should be the shallowest part of the trench use a level to get it all the same create a rubble trench by filling with gravel at least 5 in and Tamp it into place this will help with drainage and settling over time rodents however can be a big problem they can burrow through the walls and bags over time so we're using hardware cloth to wrap the first several layers of bags until you get out of the ground up to floor level also any of your exterior walls should have some sort of vapor barrier on it because of the clay that should be in your bags to help it stick together unfortunately that does mean that clay Wicks moisture in so even if the water were to hit the wall go down it it could pull in and then come up through the wall to the inside which is obviously not what you want use a heavyduty vapor barrier that wraps just like the rodent barrier you'll wrap both of these up over the floor level bag and then lay the next layer on top to lock them in we definitely recommend stabilizing your foundation levels up to your floor level with 10% cement yeah because all the way to that building is going to be on those lower layers the next technique is what to do when your bags get tall it's it's very easy to lay hyper Adobe bags when you can reach it all but as soon as it gets above things are going to slow down and get more complicated personally we just use scaffolding one person hands up a scoop the next person puts it into the bucket some people even get to use Machinery like a tractor or a skid steer or Bobcat yeah the arm they just lift the arm up full of dirt and then they just get up on the wall and they put it again unfortunately we are not those people nope uh it's great for exterior walls if you have access all the way around the building but once you get inside the building it gets a little trickier but that also depends on the design of your house either way expect your progress to just slow down once you get above your head It's Perfectly Normal now what happens when you mess up unfortunately we can't help you there because we have never messed up ever that's that's not true not true at all sometimes you don't measure the bag right and it's too short you can either end it early and lay an additional small bag or slit more bag over the end and extend it now the hyperdub bags are very stretchy so we only recommend slipping on and extending unless you absolutely have to also inevitably you're going to lay a wall that is longer than what you can scrunch up on your bag so where those seams meet you want to make sure that they aren't ever in exactly the same spot stacker them like [Music] bricks there are two basic ways to build spaces for doors and windows the first is a form the form can be built out of cheap wood like pallets and Plywood And it must be deep enough to go all the way through the wall you're going to lay your bag up to it and then remove the form when finished because of the forces pushing in on it make sure to brace the form horizontally in multiple places forms are often used to create arches or organic shapes so you should heavily stabilize the ends of the bags and especially the ones that go over the top with Portland cement once it dries remove the form and then you can install a traditional frame for your door and window to be mounted into you can also build the frame directly into the wall we recommend larger boards like 2x8s or 2x10 double bucked and supported by cross beams and held in place with angled supports as you build the wall you'll integrate cleats to lock this into place cleat or velcro strips are small pieces of 2x4 and plywood with nails going up and down they get hammered into the lower bag screwed into the frame and then the next bag layer locks them in you should do this every three or four layers all the way to the top keep in mind that traditional building method meod like headers apply here you don't want thousands of pounds of soil on top of a frame without any support yeah that window's just going to shatter the door will stop opening you're going to have all sorts of problems now if you did an arch form you pull it out it should be self-supported if you did it properly so you don't need a header but any sort of square frame that's staying in there that the door the windows getting mounted into you have to put a lentil over top now a lentil is just a lot of boards screwed together other really heavy duty pieces of wood that are going to span at least a foot past the doorway on either side right you want it sitting on the bags and not on that frame since Earth bag building takes a very long time we recommend preserving any of those frames that you plan on staying in the wall as part of the permanent structure shukuan is a cool Japanese Technique we often use go check out this video if you'd like to learn more or if you really want to you could put the frame in let it all get blasted by the sun take it back out and replace it when you're ready to do the final work I'm leaning towards that for our house build we'll say you Bab I don't know we'll see how it goes we'll see how how long it lasts [Music] okay all right we're going to touch briefly on two last items Roofing and Plastering since hyper Adobe is meant to be built vertically and capped it's super easy to incorporate traditional Roofing techniques yeah the only thing we recommend is is Hurricane straps that you go at least five bags down and you wrap over your beams and you tighten it down that way you use the immense weight of the bags sort of lock your roof into the Earth bag structure there are several different types of hurricane straps that you can use nylon webbing or metal some people pour a concrete Bond Beam on top of the walls to connect everything together before the roof goes on some people just screw them directly into the bags there are lots of different ways to do this but either way a roof is generally going to have a pitch to it right it's either going to be a shed style or a gable roof and so we think you should fill that space with cob and bottle bricks or you know you could also add bags but adding cob and bottle will create a really unique light feature you can also check out mounting a geodesic dome on top of the bags for a unique and cost- effective roof for plastering on hyper Adobe bags the nice thing is that number one they are UV treated so you don't have to worry about them falling apart over time while you're building and two the mesh bag does act as a lath for applying the material directly so it should save you time we recommend an earth and plaster on inside and you can see the most recent plaster mix video here for the Dome personally here in our climate and winds and hail and rain we've had to resort to fiberglass based stucco and elastomeric waterproof covering it's not as natural as we would like but so far it's holding up much better than our first attempt with earn cement plaster Plastering applies to so many other natural building techniques that we just can't get too far into it here there are tons of resources out there if you want to learn [Music] more we hope that this deep dive on hyper Adobe has given you everything that you need to go and make your own Creations but if you still need some help here's a few more options if you'd like to get some hands-on experience we do run paid workshops here on our Homestead pretty regularly and have a special email list at tiny shiny home.

com Meetup that you need to get on to be notified before everyone else these usually happen in the spring and in the fall when the weather's a little more accommodating next we are officially announcing our second hyper Adobe Earth bag bulk order yeah we have a great relationship with VM the company that makes the bags here in the US is the only supplier we know that actually makes quality bags here um but these things are super expensive to ship unless you're buying in bulk for example one roll of 16-in bags which is 1,640 linear fee cost $280 and an additional $170 to ship it via UPS or FedEx to get it delivered via Freight you have to order 20 rolls cuz that's how many comes on a pallet and if our big hyper doe roundhouse is only going to have 10 rolls most people are never going to order enough to get that discount if you have a hyper Adobe building project coming up and you're in driving distance to Southeast Arizona we can save you about $50 a roll the bulk order is only open until one week from now and we streamline the ordering process over at tiny shiny hum. com hyob you can fill out the form choose however many roles you want and then we'll coordinate for you to come pick them up and finally we're officially taking the wraps off of our Homestead coaching after four years of researching and experimenting with Earth bag building solar systems permaculture water catchment septic and composting community building and extreme weather prep we finally feel like we have some wisdom to share in paid video Q&A sessions lots more information over at tiny shingh hel.